Soloing The Grand Teton
America's Favorite & Most Complete Guide
To Climbing The Grand Teton In A Day

Climbers can be seen on the Owen-Spalding & Upper Exum routes without protection or guides when the weather & climbing conditions are ideal. You don't need to be a great climber to follow in their footsteps. You don't need special gear to get up or off the Grand Teton. You do need to be a robust hiker who's comfortable with mountain scrambling & steep drop-offs. If that's you, then the chances are very good that you can make the round-trip during daylight hours when the conditions are suitable.

We'll show you the route and share some tips, but we can't promise that Mother Nature will be as accommodating. Ice, rock fall, and fast changing weather are serious threats that make protection popular for a reason. Accidents happen. There are no safe routes on the Grand Teton.
 

West Face Grand Teton
~Owen-Spalding Route~

The Owen-Spalding route is the quickest way up the Grand Teton.
It is considered the easiest route when conditions are ideal.
Trip Report. Another route photo.

South Face Grand Teton
~Upper Exum Route~

The south facing Upper Exum route is a little harder
than the Owen-Spalding & more time consuming.
Upper Exum Ridge. Winter View. Large Overview. Aerial View. Trip Report.

We'll start by looking at the Owen-Spalding route on the western face of the summit block. The real climbing begins at the Belly Roll which is on the northeast edge of the Upper Saddle. We'll cover the scramble to the Upper Saddle a little later. The video below covers the Owen-Spalding's great exposure from the Belly Roll to the Double Chimney.

GoPro - Belly Roll to Double Chimney
Upper Saddle to DC & Video of Climber Soloing
Watch on Vimeo or YouTube
~Owen-Spalding Route~

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The Belly Roll, the Crawl, and the move into the second entrance of the Double Chimney are short sections that aren't too difficult with good conditions; nonetheless, an unprotected fall will result in death. All of these sections are along the same horizontal cleavage in the rock. The exposed ledge between the Belly Roll and the Crawl is an easy walk and there's a nice safe place to sit to take in the view before going across the Crawl.

Your skill set & conditions will often dictate how you manage the exposed areas but some options aren't always obvious. For example, climbers usually go over the Belly Roll but going under the Belly Roll works fine especially on the downclimb. And there is a nice narrow foothold outside of the Crawl.

While the Belly Roll gets the most attention, the traverse between the first & second entrance of the Double Chimney may be the psychological crux of the route for solo climbers. Those sloping footholds aren't much better than friction and they seem to be the worst directly below the second entrance. The handholds are adequate. If you can't handle grade school monkey bars, find another mountain to solo.

Some protected climbers will use the first entrance of the Double Chimney but this isn't recommended for free soloing. Additionally, it's not unusual to find icy conditions in this area so move cautiously as you advance north out of the Crawl. The foot-wide ledge about 10' below the Double Chimney's second entrance doesn't provide any benefit over the hand traverse above but there's a small chance it will save your life if you slip.

The Great West Chimney can be accessed via a partly protected ledge just north of the Double Chimney's second entrance. While this isn't part of the O-S route, it is a private place to empty the bladder that's just seconds away. Once inside the very short Double Chimney, you can reach the top through the V-shaped wedge or the icy tunnel below it. The tunnel may be easier for some climbers.

Double Chimney
Watch on Vimeo or YouTube
Helmet Cam in DC
~Owen-Spalding Route~

Top of the Double Chimney to
Top of the Grand Teton.
Watch on Vimeo or YouTube
~Owen-Spalding Route~

The above video was shot in early October, 2010.

Once out of the Double Chimney, you'll have 2 options - the Catwalk or the Owen Chimney. The Owen Chimney will be directly in front of you. The Catwalk is just to your right, above you, and runs south. The Catwalk usually clears of ice before the Owen Chimney and it's a good option for many climbers. It isn't always the safer option. If both are iced up, I prefer the Owen Chimney provided it's possible to navigate without pro. A careful climber can get through the chimney under some fairly adverse conditions. Tall climbers may have an easier time reaching holds. On average, during the peak summer climbing season, all the chimneys are manageable.

To reach the Catwalk, you have the option of scrambling up the rock to your south or climbing about 13 feet into the Owen Chimney and then exiting onto the Catwalk's very narrow northern tip. The Catwalk takes you south towards the Main Rappel to the Upper Saddle. You'll be scrambling up some rock at the south end of the Catwalk to reach the rap's overlook. From there, it's a short northeast walk up to Sargent's Chimney.

If I am climbing up the Owen Chimney, I may take a minute or so to examine the Catwalk's conditions in case I decide to use it on the downclimb. A spot near the north end cycles through icy, wet, & dry conditions with the changing weather.

A short distance up the Owen Chimney you'll find a small parallel crack to the south that can also be used to reach the base of Sargent's Chimney. Sometimes this lets you bypass other climbers or avoid bad conditions.

Sargent's Chimney is the first chimney south of the Owen Chimney's top. it has a wide entrance and a big southern flank. From the south it looks like a massive buttress. It's hard to miss. The very top of the chimney tends to have more ice than the bottom. Many climbers take a Hidden Exit to the north that's about two-thirds of the way up Sargent's. You can skip the Hidden Exit and climb to the rap sling at the chimney's top if conditions are good and you're comfortable doing so. Some climbers find this more difficult than the Hidden Exit but I don't see much difference under ideal conditions. If climbers are using the rappel, I'll use the Hidden Exit.

Take a look around when you leave Sargent's Chimney. You'll want to remember your location for the downclimb. The Park Service would prefer that you use good climbing practices and not build cairns to mark your path in climbing areas. Surveyors' flagging tape could be used and then removed on the downclimb if you're uncertain about your route finding. If it's a high traffic day, you can simply follow everyone. Most climbers can figure out their location just by looking at a route photo of the west face.

Upon exiting Sargent's Chimney you'll be heading to the climber's left (northeast) to reach the summit. More than likely, you aren't taking a straight-line route. You'll be scrambling up the rock and zig-zagging along some ledges that will take you in several directions but overall it's mostly northeast to the summit.

Full size topo map covering entire climber's Trail.
Expanded Grand Teton Features Map for Climbers & Skiers.
Flyover of climber's Route (Video - Google Earth).

The Lower & Upper Saddle
A few variations between the Lower & Upper Saddle.
Video of Boy Scouts in this area.

Getting to the Upper Saddle is pretty simple. Just go up whatever you can safely ascend. There are many variations but I'll stick to the one I consider the best when conditions are good. From the Lower Saddle, head to the Needle. Take the first chimney on the west side of the Needle (the Chockstone Chimney) and head to its dead end. Turn south and take the ledge out of the chimney. The Eye of the Needle will be to your northeast and it is a natural tunnel back into the chimney. If it is iced up, you can usually climb over the mass of rocks.

Chockstone Chimney & Eye of the Needle
Watch on Vimeo or YouTube
~Between the Lower & Upper Saddle~

Once out of the Eye, you will be faced with a minor boulder problem (the Belly Roll Almost) before exiting completely out of the Chockstone Chimney. There is a small foothold below this obstacle that makes the climbing move fairly easy. Since it's out of view, most climbers miss it and go over the rock. Once past here you'll be scrambling up the western side of Central Rib (Needle's ridgeline).

As you leave the Chockstone Chimney, stay to the climber's left (heading to the right would take you to the Lower Crossover to Wall Street). Above there, stay a little closer to the ridge than the couloir's drainage. You're kind of on a middle path but don't be too concerned if you get off course. You're going up as are all the broken footpaths.

The talus gully just west of the Central Rib is sometimes referred to as the Owen-Spalding Couloir. It has also been called the Central Rib Couloir however that name has also been used for the Wall Street Couloir. It has also been called the Idaho Express but most peope reserve that name for the most western couloir (Dartmouth Couloir) that drops you into Dartmouth Basin towards Idaho. Go figure. Here's a detailed look at the Central Rib area and an aerial photo. I use the following nomenclature: 1) Dartmouth Couloir (Idaho Express) - most western couloir falling into Dartmouth Basin towards Idaho. 2) Owen-Spalding Couloir - first couloir west of the Central Rib & used by many climbers ascending the Owen-Spalding route. 3) Wall Street Couloir - first couloir west of the Exum Ridge & running by the entrance to Wall Street.

Further up the slope and way past the Chockstone Chimney you'll find a short & slightly blackish western extension of the Central Rib that will force you to choose between scrambling along the edge of the talus in the Owen-Spalding Couloir to your west or scrambling to the ridgeline of the Central Rib to your east. I avoid the talus gully and the slight ridge to its west unless conditions, or other circumstances, justify such actions. Others, including a few guides, gravitate westward - there's a sloppy footpath along the western side of the talus by the slight ridge. We'll examine the Central Rib option that takes you east to the ridgeline.

At this point, you'll see a large unmistakable west-facing slab of mostly smooth vertical rock that hangs off the Central Rib's ridgeline to your right. The trail to access the ridge is just to the north of that slab within the western extension of the Central Rib that's blocking your path provided you stayed close to the Central Rib while hiking (video). You'll be scrambling up some rock until a well worn path within the western extension becomes visable. It's not the easiest route finding of your climb which is why many people end up taking the talus gully (O-S Couloir). It's also true that there is a path leading towards the gully that runs alongside the very western toe of the slope off of the Central Rib and people naturally follow it into the gully.

From the Central Rib's ridgeline, follow it north along the path of least resistance. You'll be on the western side of the actual ridgetop for most of the ascent except for a short easterly section of the trail. Within that short section is a drainage heading southeast to the Wall Street Couloir, and Wall Street itself is visable. Directly above that short section you'll be back on the western side of the ridge until it almost disappears into the slope. At that point you'll head northeast to reach the Upper Saddle.

Had you headed back to the eastern side of the Central Rib immediately after (above) that short easterly section you would have run into some boulder problems which are manageable but time consuming. If you must return to the eastern side because of conditions, head a little further east into the Wall Street Couloir to avoid the biggest obstacles.

From the Upper Saddle, head to the northeast corner along the only path available until you meet the Belly Roll rock where the climbing, & exposure, really begins. Keep in mind that falling rock is not uncommon directly below the Main Rappel. It doesn't happen very often but you're in the line of fire.

Just above the Lower Saddle, had you mistakenly headed to the first chute on the eastern side of the Needle, you would have ended up in an area that doesn't provide any advantages over the traditional route. The bottom is usually wet and you're in a terrain trap if there's rock fall. It is possible to follow the far eastern side of this area up & around to the Lower Crossover to Wall Street. A slab heading west to the Central Rib's ridgeline ends right at the Lower Crossover's location. That slab is shown in the "Central Rib to Exum Ridge" video embedded below. You could try crack climbing over a rock wall to shorten your route but most climbers will want to avoid this area altogether.

The best variations aren't always obvious and the many broken footpaths can add to the confusion. While the route I've suggested between the Lower & Upper Saddle is the safest, quickest, and easiest for me when conditions are good, it's obviously not your only option. At the Chockstone Chimney, you could head directly west and scramble up the ridgeline by the Idaho Express or you could head to the Briggs Slab above you and cross back to the Central Rib. You could hike directly up the Owen-Spalding Couloir and climb some rock. All you really need to know is that you're going up. Here's a map from the book, 'Teton Classics: 50 Selected Climbs in Grand Teton National Park'.

The talus in the Owen-Spalding Couloir just west of the Central Rib's Needle really looks like the path of least resistance but it's my last choice. I'll use it early in the season if there is a stable bootpack or the Central Rib is a mess. The footing is bad, rock fall is common, and better options are usually available. As I mentioned above, this area gets a fair amount of use as do the small ridges to the west of the Central Rib.

A GoPro Look At climber's Trail along the Central Rib
(9.5 minutes). Shorter Boy Scout Video (same link above).
Watch on Vimeo or YouTube
~Between the Lower & Upper Saddle~

Bootpack & Fixed Rope to Lower Saddle
Watch on Vimeo or YouTube

Bootpack conditions can change very quickly and they tend to get worse as the day plays out. An ice axe comes in handy as do crampons but a careful climber may get by with hiking poles and/or good boots to kick steps in the snowpack. GTNP recommends ice axes for safe passage over all divides and passes until around the third week of July. If it's a heavy snow year, an axe may be warranted into August. The Fixed Rope at the Lower Saddle's headwall isn't used until most of the snow has melted. The Climbing Rangers usually announce its availability in a blog post.

The rock that the Fixed Rope drapes is a modest scramble when dry. To reach the Lower Saddle from the Fixed Rope, you'll head southwest towards the Middle Teton until you're near the toe of the Middle as it sits on the saddle. You'll pass the most eastern camping spot which is next to a big boulder. At that point you'll head west along a nice path assuming all the snow is gone. This is also where the path forks east towards the top-end of the Bootpack. The route directly above & below the Fixed Rope is more like several poorly-defined sloppy paths over eroded earth.

~ The Upper Exum ~

The south facing Upper Exum route feels more satisfying to climb than the Owen-Spalding. It has several variations, more sunshine, and more climbing for a novice to enjoy. It does have less ice but keep in mind that verglas can form anywhere and is easy to miss. Don't underestimate this hazard on a warm sunny day. While you may encounter snow and ice at any time of year, the Upper Exum usually cleans up nicely and melts off before the Owen-Spalding route.

A few variations on the Upper Exum may put you in an awkward position. Look over several options if none is there to guide you and carefully examine each climbing line before proceeding. When soloing up rock you've never seen before, tip the scales in your favor and choose the most comfortable path.

Free Solo Climb
Upper Exum route on the way up.
Owen-Spalding on the way down.
Watch on YouTube
~Upper Exum & Owen-Spalding~
Thanks to www.TheSnaz.com

You need to reach the Wall Street ledge to access the Upper Exum route. If you went through the Eye of the Needle, you'll be staying to the climber's right and following the Needle's ridgeline until you come upon the lower crossover point which is a short distance up the slope. There is also an upper crossover point that's usually marked with a large pile of rocks (cairns).

If you examine a photograph of the area you can figure out when to cross the ridgeline. You'll be scrambling down the Central Rib's eastern side & across the talus field to the base of Wall Street which stands out like the Mall of America. Follow Wall Street around to its natural end at the Exum Ridge.

Central Rib to Exum Ridge via Wall Street
Watch on Vimeo or YouTube
Helmet Cam at the Step Across
~Upper Exum Route~

There are two ways to get past the great exposure of the Step Across at the end of Wall Street. You can take the topmost shelf (a very narrow extension of Wall Street's massive ledge) or you can take the very narrow lower shelf directly below it. You'll be working your way around a corner. You can watch a video of two climbers soloing the lower & upper ledges simultaneously: Helmet Cam at the Step Across. This is also where the Lower Exum ridge meets the Upper Exum.

Most climbers prefer the lower ledge which has better handholds but once you turn the corner the footholds are rather slim. I find the upper ledge to be faster and easier when the wind is calm. A strong wind gust could easily blow you off this ledge. This is another section where tall people may have an advantage. It doesn't require fancy climbing moves but it's very exposed with modest holds.

You'll end up just below the Golden Stair once you get past the exposure. You can also head a little further east & play in some cracks. Take time to enjoy the view.

Golden Stair
Watch on YouTube
~Upper Exum Route~

Grand Teton's Exum Ridge
~Upper Exum Route~

Many sections of the Upper Exum route will fall naturally into your selection process even if you don't know the exact route ahead of time. According to trip reports, some people feel a little lost. As long as you're somewhat near the ridge you're on the traditional route. Find any line you're comfortable climbing. There are plenty of variations.

Above the Golden Stair, you'll head north along the ridge until there's nowhere else to go but east into the Wind Tunnel. You'll turn north at the first big chute because that's the only reasonable way to go. At this point, I usually stay to the climber's left while navigating some minor boulder problems. I call this the heart of the Wind Tunnel.

 

Wind Tunnel
Watch on YouTube
~Upper Exum Route~

From there you'll scramble up the chute towards the Jern Crack. When the chute finally opens up on the eastern side you will be just below the Jern. That opening is also the access point to the Friction-Pitch Bypass - discussed later. From this location, the Jern Crack is the first dihedral crack west of the eastern crest (eastern exposure) of the ridge. There's a short scramble up some rock to reach the southeast facing Jern which will take you to the Friction Pitch.

The Jern Crack (or Jern Chimney) is the JLCR's moniker for the crack after climbing guide Ken Jern slipped on ice and fell 50ft. If you missed it above, you can watch Ken point out the location in a soloing video posted by David Gonzales. Many climbers use the Jern to access the Friction Pitch but options abound. I like climbing the exposed western edge of the ridge before gradually moving northeast to where climbers exit the Jern - the climbing options will naturally take you in this direction. Some climbers will ascend the eastern exposure along the eastern crest.

 

The Jern Chimney / Crack
Watch on YouTube
~Upper Exum Route~

That eastern crest of the ridge has a sidewall which is one plane of another dihedral emanating from a big corner crack. The other plane runs east to the Friction-Pitch Bypass. As mentioned previously, you would have passed through the first eastern opening in the chute that rises out of the Wind Tunnel to access the bypass. That big corner crack between the crest and the bypass is another option for competent crack-happy climbers. A rating of 5.7 has been tossed around for the crack. I haven't seen a published name for this crack or the bypass.

The Friction-Pitch Bypass is a chimney that may be easier & safer to navigate than the Friction Pitch. I'd stay to the climber's right while in the top half of the chimney. The left side will be more difficult for some. If I was forced to downclimb the Exum Ridge, the bypass would be my preferred route. Snow and ice cover the bypass early in the season so don't count on it being available. And there will be a higher chance of loose holds and rock fall.

For the Friction Pitch, novice solo climbers should carefully consider all their options before running up the first line that looks good or choosing the first hold that looks good. You may end up in a terrain trap that's rather unforgiving. Usually, it's just one move and you're out of trouble. I don't want to overstate the difficulty; just point out the increased possibility of getting into trouble. It's certainlty no place to be if conditions are questionable. The following video shows three ascents past a crux along the eastern crest.

Eastern Crest of the Friction Pitch
Watch on YouTube
~Upper Exum Route~

After scrambling a good distance above the Friction Pitch, you'll find the V-Pitch on the very ridgeline. The V-Pitch is out of view if you're to the east of it. No worries if you miss it. While the V-Pitch is easier for many climbers and the exposure is a nice photo opportunity, you can scramble up the rock to the east of the V-Pitch without too much difficulity when conditions are good.

 

V-Pitch
Watch on YouTube
~Upper Exum Route~

Just out of the V-Pitch to your the northwest will be a series of rocky ledges that can be used to easily & quickly escape the Upper Exum during emergencies. You will be descending a northwest path towards the Main Rappel to the Upper Saddle. The massive buttress that stands out from the rest of the summit block is the 'backside' of Sargent's Chimney and you'll end up just below Sargent's to access the rappel area. If you can't rappel, you can downclimb the Owen-Spalding's Catwalk, etc, to reach the Upper Saddle. I would rather be at, or below, the Upper Saddle during a storm than on the summit block above. There are other escape routes off of the Upper Exum but they require protection. The first one is just above the Golden Stair - a 60' rappel onto Wall Street.

If you don't need to escape the Upper Exum then it's off to the summit of the Grand Teton. One variation is to head southeast - down and around the southern tip of the ridgeline to the ridge's eastern side. You will want perfect conditions and very sticky shoes. The better route is usually the short west-leaning crackish boulder problem directly in front of you. This variation is on the shady western side of the south ridgeline. The approach dips down into an area that may be icy & the crack is a slight body twister.

Once past there, you'll head east & northeast towards the ridgeline. I don't go directly to the top of the ridge just yet because I want to avoid some boulder problems. If you end up in a tight spot, just backtrack and head further north before heading further east. I'm usually on the southern ridgetop for a short period. At this point in the day, I'm focused on the summit and not playing on the rocks but there are several variations above the V-Pitch for climbers who still need a fix.

You can scramble on either side of the ridgeline. Choose your route based upon conditions or tradition. Most climbers eventually scramble over to the eastern side and avoid the northern ridgetop just south of the summit. In other words, they aren't on the top of the ridgeline as they approach the summit.

If you're a strong climber, finding a variation that suits your interests and ability may be the biggest challenge. If you're there in the morning, you'll probably be following other climbers.

~The Downclimb & Rappel~

Just about everybody downclimbs a portion of the Owen-Spalding and heads to the 40 meter rappel to the Upper Saddle. The Main Rappel is a short walk to the southwest once out of Sargent's Chimney. The bolted rap rings have an attached tag that says "40m" and that probably represents the longest possible drop. There is also a sling a few feet to the south that will shorten the ride.

Some solo climbers will take the rappel. The rap's measurements are said to vary between 100 and 130 ft. I don't know the exact shortest length. If you move to the south while rappelling down, you'll be landing on the higher end of the Upper Saddle's slope. With rope stretch you might get by with a dynamic 60m rope if you use the rap ring on the sling instead of the bolted rap rings. I won't make any promises but this is how many climbers fly.

There is another rap area that can be used with one 60m rope and 2 setups. It's just to the south and just above the Main Rap (maybe 30-40 ft away). Here's a video. Check with the Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers about its actual length if you have a rope under 60m (the reported length is 70 ft for each setup). Sometime during the summer of 2012, I will measure the lengths of all these raps with a laser.

You can access this 2X70' rap in two ways. 1) Scramble up the opening just to the south of the Main Rappel's bolted chain and directly above the adjacent rappel station. Climb a very short crack & take the first ledge heading south directly to the single-rope rappel station. 2) The other option is to scramble above the Main Rappel area until you're just south of it and then scramble down to the last ledge that runs south towards the secondary rappel station. The rap rings are out of sight until you're upon them. I haven't tried it; however, you may be able to avoid the first setup of the secondary rappel station and scramble directly to the second setup. It looks possible.

A large outcropping just to the north of the Main Rappel overlooks the staging area and the Upper Saddle. It looks like an extra wide swimming pool diving board. It also has a view towards the Catwalk and much of the western summit block. If you look closely (to the south and below) you can see the rap slings by the second staging area for the single-rope rappel.

It's not unusual to be offered a rap from another climber. For me, downclimbing is faster than waiting for a rappel.

From the rap area, you can take the Catwalk (video here) to the bottom of the Owen Chimney. From there, you'll go down the Double Chimney (video here) and past the great exposure to reach the Upper Saddle. Ice can make the Catwalk impassable so be prepared to use the Owen Chimney. Both work fine if ice is avoidable.

If there are no exposed rocks, a glissade down the Middle Teton Glacier from the bootpack is a popular time saver early in the climbing season. It's best to closely examine the glissade path for exposed rocks on your way up the mountain. I like the snow a little soft for the ride but firm enough to plant an axe. Sometimes it's best to use the bootpack. Even if you slip, keep in mind that it's one of the safer slides in the Tetons when snow covers everything. A series of bad glissading injuries & slips on snow fields happened in the Teton Range during 2011, but none happened on the path from the Lower Saddle's headwall down the Middle Teton Glacier.

Glissading down the Middle Teton Glacier from the
bootpack on the Lower Saddle's Headwall.
Watch on YouTube.
~ climber's Trail ~

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The Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers' blog has information about upper mountain route conditions. It's not always up to date but conditions are near their best if they say the Fixed Rope is being used and the ice is avoidable. You can also check with the good folks at the climber's Ranch about conditions. Local climbing shops, blogs, smart-phone apps, Twitter feeds, Facebook posts, & the Ranger Station at Jenny Lake can also be valuable sources for current information. You're looking for a baseline assessment because conditions can change quickly. If it rained overnight, yesterday's perfect conditions may turn into icy conditions the following morning but then clear up as temperatures rise.

Opinions about the route can vary greatly from one climber to the next. People have different skills and comfort levels. Climbers just off the mountain tend to be the best source of information about conditions. On most days you'll be following the crowds to the top of the Grand Teton which can be a good thing for safety and route finding.

Novice solo climbers who are unfamiliar with the Grand Teton should stick to the Owen-Spalding route. It's easier to turn around if conditions sour or you become uncomfortable with the climb. By climbing up, you'll know the way down and you'll know the conditions. Climbing down the Upper Exum is not the best idea unless you need to retreat in the face of oncoming weather. Even then, it's best to hitch a ride with climbers who have protection. For those unable to summit the Grand, the second highest peak in the Teton Range, The Enclosure, is the quick scramble starting about 100 ft below the Upper Saddle and to its west. If you have done the Owen-Spalding, soloing the Upper Exum and downclimbing the Owen-Spalding makes for a fine day in the Tetons.

_______________________________________________

There are two boulder fields below the Lower Saddle where the trail disappears. The first one is where the Garnet Canyon Trail meets Garnet Creek - about 4 miles from the Lupine Meadows Trailhead. It's a short scramble before you're back on the trail again which is next to the creek. This video provides a basic look at the area. Snow can alter the path you'll take through the boulders and you're always free to blaze your own.

The second boulder field is closer to the Morainal Camping Zone near the Middle Teton Glacier. Not long after crossing a wide drainage that runs southish from the Teepe Glacier area the trail starts to level off with a few cairns marking its location. You might see the trail fork to the JHMG's climbing hut (Corbet's High Camp) to the northwest - you're not headed up there. You're on a fairly straight shot over the rocky path towards the Lower Saddle.

As you get near the Morainal Camping Zone you'll be headed for some big boulders. About 40 feet into the big boulders you'll turn south and head towards a drainage running East.

You'll see a metal sign by the drainage where the trail starts up again. You'll be just below the first camping area as you come out of the drainage. The trail splits in a few locations to access camping sites. The path along the slight ridge will take you to the Bootpack & Fixed Rope. BTW, no worries if you bypass the trail, blow over the rocks (or snow) and hike towards the headwall. You'll end up back on the trail at some point. Just avoid trampling any fragile vegetation.

There is a natural rain shelter in the 2nd boulder field just north of the metal sign and there is another cave just west of the 1st boulder field by the north side of the trail. Of course, the Petzoldt's Caves camping spot provides some protection midway between those two spots. And the Eye of the Needle might provide some protection. Here's a video that points out the shelters.

If you're climbing early in the season, the normal climber's trail that runs by Petzoldt's Caves & Spalding Falls may be buried in snow and the chance of unstable snow may still exist. Small, or large, slabs of snow can let loose like falling rock. The best route under these conditions is usually a bootpack above the Meadows that runs below the Middle Teton's northeast face.

The Meadows' bootpack tends to be the most stable before it sees the morning sun. And exposed rocks tend to pop up in this area so it's not always a good spot for glissading. You will be most comfortable with an ice axe & crampons even if it's possible to manage without them. You may even want to, or need to, make your own bootpack. The direct route to the Lower Saddle over snow can be a real time saver with firm conditions. The Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers usually post a blog update when they think the climber's trail by Spalding Falls should be used.

Grand Teton National Park
GTNP on Facebook

Great climbing conditions can start in late June and extended into October. During the early part of the climbing season the route above the Lower Saddle may clear before the canyon below it clears of snow. July, August, & early September are considered the best time to climb but early July can be too icy and conditions can change rapidly as you head into September. Snow & ice storms may hit the mountain during the climbing season but poor conditions can improve fairly quickly if the summit block is above 40 degrees & sun drenched. Generally speaking, early August has nice long days, warm temps, plenty of climbers, & conditions are near their best so it tends to be a good time for a novice climber to attempt the Grand.

For more solitude, avoid the weekends & try the off-season. Labor Day weekend is a mountain traffic jam if the weather is nice. Keep in mind that prescribed burns are usually scheduled during the fall and they can make breathing harder and limit your view. Natural & prescribed forest fires can make Los Angeles' air appear purified by comparison.

The young and old successfully summit the Grand Teton every summer. Most don't solo, or attempt a round-trip in one afternoon, but they make it to the top. 80-year-old Bob Riggs reached the summit in 2007. Jeff Lowe summited at age 7 with his father in 1957. An out-of-shape Geraldine Lucas reached the top in 1924, at the age of 58. Of course, many climbers don't make it to the summit and most young children should not be climbing the Grand. The Boy Scouts did an impressive job in 2011, but it took tremendous effort.

Some experienced climbers complain about the lack of a challenge on these two routes. As far as the climbing goes, they're mostly correct. This isn't a 5.11 climb (it's 5.4 to 5.5), but a good amount of confidence & agility on rock is required for those going solo or roping up. All routes are inherently dangerous and poor conditions can make a 5.4 climb much harder.

The hike from Lupine Meadows to the Lower Saddle takes a toll on all but the most fit climbers and many don't enjoy the experience. A round-trip climb in a single day is extremely taxing and adults who aren't used to such activities should consider other options.

Bryce Thatcher holds the record for the fastest time to the top & back in just over 3 hours. He talks about it on www.TetonAT.com (more info here). Most climbers don't reach the Lower Saddle in 3 hours. Plan on a long day. Steve Romeo, the man behind TetonAT.com, lost his life in an avalanche on March 7th, 2012, so our links to his blog site may not function in the future and his death is yet another reminder that the mountains don't care about your experience or safety.